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The peaks of Shei-Pa

The Atayal people consider Dabajian Mountain to be a holy massif. (Courtesy of Yu Jheng-hao)

• Publication Date：02/14/2008
• By  Allen Hsu

Taiwan is an island rich in cultural and natural wonders. In addition to its multitude of scenic spots and historic sites, the nation boasts seven world-class national parks. Taiwan Journal staff writer Allen Hsu will explore and introduce these unique wilderness areas in a seven-part series of articles.

Shei-Pa National Park Headquarters announced Jan. 8 the opening of the Syuejian Recreation Area, one of its three recreation areas other than the existing Wuling and Guanwu sites. "The plan to open Syuejian has been scheduled for several years," Lin Ching, director of the Shei-Pa National Park, said Jan. 31. "But it is only feasible now due to the easing of safety concerns on our major transport link, the typhoon-damaged Sihmasian Forest Road. In comparison with our other two recreation areas, Syuejian is relatively unspoiled, filled with a bounty of animal and plant resources as well as aboriginal culture," Lin added.

Spread over 768.5 square kilometers, Shei-Pa lies in the central and northern part of Taiwan and was established fifth among the country's seven national parks. Founded in 1992, the wilderness area is famous for its 51 peaks towering over 3,000 meters. In fact, the name of the park is derived from its two most famous mountains--Syue Mountain and Dabajian Mountain. The former, 3,886 meters above sea level, is the island nation's second-highest massif behind the 3,952-meter Jade Mountain. Famous for its tower shape, Dabajian is considered a holy mountain by the Atayal people who comprise the majority of indigenous people living within the national park.

Surrounded by several aboriginal villages, Syuejian contains valuable historic relics leftover from the Japanese colonial era (1895-1945). Chiu Ching-yao, a Shei-Pa guide who also volunteers with the Taiwan Association for Nature Education, said Feb. 1. "The remains of Japanese army posts and gun emplacements indicate Syuejian's strategic importance in controlling aboriginal villages. In addition to monitoring indigenous people's activities, the Japanese army placed great emphasis on this area because of its high-quality timber," he explained. Camphor and elm trees, for example, were widely harvested and exported to Japan during the occupation period.

Besides flora, Syuejian possesses a variety of fauna resources as well, Chiu remarked. "Due to the area's remoteness, different kinds of wildlife are found everywhere and can be easily observed by visitors," he said. Chiu explained that visitors will be amazed to see so many rare animals, such as the Formosan rock-monkey, Formosan Reeve's muntjac, crested serpent eagle, white-eared sibia and Swinhoe's frog. Although Syuejian is relatively small in comparison with the other two recreation areas, "the locale is particularly suitable for slow and deep traveling," he stated.

In addition to Syuejian, Wuling and Guanwu are also brimming with natural and cultural marvels. "How Shei-Pa stands out from other national parks is that we have everything they have and so much more," Lin remarked, citing the Formosan landlocked salmon--a national treasure dating back to glacial times that exists nowhere else except the Wuling Recreation Area. The park's landlocked salmon, Lin explained, have been trapped in this mountainous area for millions of years due to tectonic change. The salmon require a pristine habitat in order to survive, so their numbers have been very scarce in the past.

"To rescue this endangered species, we've undertaken various conservation procedures, including establishing long-term ecological monitoring areas, limiting the number of visitors, constructing a fishway and, most importantly, founding a salmon conservation center," the director said. "The artificial breeding program conducted at the Wuling center has been so successful that we have even released fish back into local streams."

Guanwu is not without its rare species as well, a balsamine called Impatiens devolii that is endemic to Taiwan is found in small numbers, Lin noted. Recently, the park headquarters discovered a Guanwu Formosan salamander and commissioned documentary auteur Chen Jin-fa to produce a film on the amphibian. The three-year work titled "In search of the Relic Species from the Jurassic Period" won the Platinum Remi Award in the nature and wildlife category at the 40th WorldFest-Houston International Film Festival last year. "This award was completely a surprise, as well as a recognition of the conservation and research work we've accomplished over the past years," Lin said.

While natural blessings abound in Shei-Pa National Park, so too do cultural assets. Ke Jin-yuan, an Atayal guide in the park, said Feb. 1 that his people are the second-largest aboriginal tribe in Taiwan following the Amis. "Even after Japanese colonization and the dictatorial governance they imposed on aboriginal people, our indigenous culture survived and still plays a deep-rooted role in daily life," Ke said. The tradition of facial tattooing, for example, is such a significant event to the Atayal. "Only men who have acquired hunting skills and women who still maintain their purity are allowed to receive a facial tattoo. It's considered an honor as well as a test for people who have to undertake the painful process," he added.

Despite the Atayal's traditional lifestyle being in perfect harmony with their natural surrounds, these indigenous people are coming under increased pressure from the all-pervasive influences of modern society. "The establishment of the national park, therefore, not only preserves our unique culture, but also assists aborigines to become accustomed to modern life," Ke stressed.

Speaking of the future, Lin said he would like to promote a national symbol for Taiwan across the world. "Kangaroos and eagles are generally regarded as national symbols representative of Australia and the United States respectively. Which animal can best represent Taiwan?" Lin asked. The Formosan landlocked salmon, he continued, can best reflect the national spirit of Taiwan. First, the salmon is landlocked, which equates to the nation's diplomatic isolation around the world. Second, the fish can only survive in extremely clean waters with a low temperature. "This reflects the Taiwanese people who remain simple at heart and ask only for a better living environment," he noted. Last, the shape of the salmon resembles the coastline of Taiwan.

Shei-Pa National Park is renowned across the nation for its Wuling and Guanwu Recreation Areas, and looks set to become even more popular with the opening of the Syuejian area. "Whoever visits the region will leave well-sated with a feeling that can only be derived from this natural and cultural oasis," Lin said.

Write to Allen Hsu at allenhsu@mail.gio.gov.tw