To the Western ear, the loud clanging of cymbals, drone of the suona—a high-pitched wind instrument—and singing in another language may at first shock the senses, but by digging a little deeper one finds a visually stunning cultural phenomenon rich in symbolism and tradition. Performances of Taiwanese opera, or kua-á-hì as it is known in Holo, or Taiwanese, often accompany religious festivals in Taiwan, but the art form exists at levels ranging from small, amateur, street-side performances all the way up to professional, high-production events that tour the world.
Originating as a distinct style in Yilan, northern Taiwan in the late 19th century, Taiwanese folk opera can traces its roots to the southern variations of Chinese opera. It is the only form of traditional Han drama to have developed in Taiwan, although it was started by immigrants from Fujian province in mainland China and is an expression of folk stories of the region. Its appeal grew through the first half of the 20th century and by the end of the Japanese colonial era (1895–1945) it had become the predominant form of entertainment in Taiwan. By the 1980s it was regularly broadcast on television, and fans point to that adaptability as a key reason for its continuing success. While the popularity of Taiwanese opera has declined somewhat, particularly among younger generations, it is still an important part of Taiwanese culture today.
Colorful and vibrant Taiwanese opera performances are a feature of the Dajia Mazu pilgrimage, for example, an annual event held in Taichung, central Taiwan that is one of the world’s major religious activities. Taipei is also home to an annual opera festival that takes place at the beginning of summer every year. Two or three weeks of outdoor performances by a number of opera troupes are staged in the city’s historic Dihua Street precinct. Visitors to the area at that time of year who head toward the clanging of cymbals and whine of the suona to catch a traditional folk opera or two will find themselves rewarded with a true expression of Taiwan’s culture.
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Craig Ferguson is a freelance photographer based in Taipei.
Copyright © 2013 by Craig Ferguson
A performer from Xing Ing Feng Troupe. Elaborate costumes are a feature of traditional Taiwanese opera, although a makeshift backstage area is all that is needed for performers to prepare to take the stage. (Photo by Craig Ferguson)
Three performers from the Sho Qing Opera Company get in some last-minute practice before a show. (Photo by Craig Ferguson)
A performer from the I-Hsin Opera Troupe applies her makeup backstage. Traditionally, women play both male and female roles. (Photo by Craig Ferguson)
A Taiwanese opera performer from the Xing Ing Feng Troupe waits to go on stage. (Photo by Craig Ferguson)
Actresses from the Sho Qing Opera Company appear on stage during the review before the drama starts. (Photo by Craig Ferguson)
A costumed performer with a false beard is a stock character in Taiwanese opera. This artist is from the Xing Ing Feng Troupe. (Photo by Craig Ferguson)